Hood, Buttoned

There are several types of hoods known to be from the 14th century. Some of these hoods were found at the Thames River archaelogical digs and published in the Museum of London Textiles and Clothing book and some in Norlunds book on the finds in Herjolfsnes in Greenland. There are other extant hoods known to us.

For a survey of known hoods and hood patterns, please visit Marc Carlson’s site, Some Clothing of the Middle Ages. Click here to see the patterns.

This hood pattern is based on the London finds, Hood type #4.

You will need to measure everything.

  • The cirumfrance of your head around at the temples
  • The circumfance of your head top around jaw and back to top
  • Your neck
  • Your shoulders
  • The distance from jaw to edge of hood at shoulders

From Marc Carlson’s site: Some Clothing of the Middle Ages





Step 1. You will first need to get your measurements.
As you can see here, while I know lots about drafting patterns for clothing, I had a bit of trouble with the hood. The paper is the first draft, the fabric is the mockup drastically cut down and then pinned.

You will need three main pattern pieces. The hood body (cut 2), the gussets for front, back, and sides (cut 4), and the liripipe. This is the long tail that hangs down the back. The length of the liripipe depends on the decade or century. Some liripipes in 1350 France were so long that they were tied into a series of knots to keep them from dragging the ground. For the period of the Luttrell Psalter 2 – 24″ would be sufficient. This is one long tube.

Step 2. Once the mock up fits, cut your fashion fabric





Step 3. Cut your gussets





Step 4. Insert your gussets. This is tricky and works better if you curve your triangle top and ease it around. I use lots of pins.




Step 5. I wasn’t happy with the point of the inserted gusset so I reinforced it with perl cotton. That said I have seen no evidence for this particular period that implies that they made even and perfectly pointed “points.” They appear to be most rounded in some way.



Step 6. The gussets are in. You will want to sew on the liripipe. Then sew up the back seam.




Step 7. This illustrates what will eventually be a row of buttonholes. I have not hemmed the botton edge as this wool is very fulled, coat wool, and will not unravel. I could also dag the edges at this point.



Step 8. I have lined the front of the hood so that when it folds back there is nice frame to the face. There are some images in the Luttrell Psalter that show hoods with different colors inside. Whether this was a full lining or just partial as here, it matters not if your wool is not scratchy.



Step 9. The buttons and buttonholes.









Step 10. You can see here where the front gore meets the button placket.




The finished (okay, without the buttons) hood. This color is probably the closest to the actual color of all the pictures.

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