Kirtles – 6 Final Fitting

Overview | Pattern | Lacing | Gores & Fitting | Sleeves | Final Fitting

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Detail One – Neckline Facing – Now is the time, if you haven’t done it to finish your neckline facing. You will sew this facing down the same as your wider facings. The difference is that the neckline facing is very narrow. This makes the last step of turning under and stitching the final raw edges tricky if your fingers aren’t used to handsewing, but narrow it must be.

I have found over time that if I make my neckline facing too wide, over 1/2″, that it cuts into my shoulders and I loose a great deal of the stretch the curve of the neckline affords.

This strip of linen or silk, 1-1.25″ wide and as long as your neckline plus a couple inches, will first be sewn to the right side with the running stitch, then folded over and sewn with a running stitch down on the wrong side. Tuck the raw edges under and whip stitch to the wrong side.

Detail Two – Hem – There are several ways to complete a hem.

  1. Turn hem under and whip stitch (turn twice if fabric is linen or silk)
  2. Turn hem under and whip stitch and do two rows of running stitch parallel with the folded edge.
  3. #2 and then add a fingerlooped braid to the outside. Fingerlooped braid can be at your hem, your sleeve cuff, and your neckline.

Detail Three – Fit

  1. Front: The bust is supported, the waist tight, armscyes are ample. Wrinkles are period and appropriate for this garment in this time.
  2. Back: Slight wrinkling at waist shows tight fit, as it should be for 1340-1350.
  3. Side: Here you can see the side gores plus a shorter, triangular gore. The sleeve gores are also visible.
  4. Sleeve:The seam runs down the back of the arm and creates the button placket. Pewter buttons.

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