Surcote with Sleeves
Step One – Sew your shoulder seams together and finish. Baste your side gores, one to each side of the front and one to each side of the back (If you have 3 or 4 side gores for each side you will baste all and pin).
Baste your front side gores to the back side gores.
You should be able to put this on over your head. It should be loose enough to comfortable do this but tight enough to give you some form.
The way you determine fit is similiar to fitting a kirtle except that it is looser. Visit the kirtle page for some images of fitting process.
You will then sew up your side seams with one exception. You will want to leave a space on the front seams (both left and right) for the fitchet. The fitchet is a slit opening, either on the seam or cut into the fabric that allows you access to your belt and pouch. I put my fitchets on the seam because it finishes nicely and doesn’t harm the integrity of the fabric.
Insert your front and back triangular gores. This is difficult to master with a machine and I prefer to insert by hand. Click here for instructions on how to insert a gore and use this method to fit it manually.
The first image (diamond twill) is the inside. Looks a bit messy but this is because I used a wool blend and had to really secure the seams. It is common to sew them in using a running stitch with a backstitch at the points. Them whip stitch the raw edges to each other.