Surcotes – 6 Final Details

Overview | Patterns | Gores & Fitting I | Gores & Fitting II | Sleeves | Final Fitting


Detail One – Neckline and armhole facings (There is a more detailed facings demo here.) You can add a facing if you like but many of the Greenland gowns simply turned the wool over and stitched it down. If you have fabric that ravels you will want to use a facing.

Fold your raw edge over 1/2″. Whip stitch it down easing it into place. Once you have whip stitched the neck, hem, and sleeve hems, you can do one of the following:

Detail Two – Hem There are several ways to complete a hem.

Turn hem under and whip stitch (turn twice if fabric is linen or silk)

Turn hem under and whip stitch and do two rows of running stitch parallel with the folded edge.

#2 and then add a fingerlooped braid to the outside. Fingerlooped braid can be at your hem, your sleeve cuff, and your neckline.

Detail Three – Fit

Front and back (full or sideless): The bust is not supported, the garment hangs from the shoulders and is unimpeded in its drape from shoulder to hem.

Side (full or sideless): Same as above

Sleeve – The seam is loose and unless it extends to the wrist it doesn’t really touch the arm. If it does extend to the wrist it might narrow enough that you would want to open the cuff a bit and add a button or closure.

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