Glossary

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  • Alb: long white linen tunic which became an exclusively liturgical garment after 6th
    century
  • Armseye (see scye): Arm hole of a garment
  • Baldrick: sword-belt, later an ammunition belt for soldiers, worn from shoulder to
    opposite hip,early times onward
  • Barbette: band put under chin and fastened on the top of the head, worn by women,
    12th-14th centuries
  • Braccae or Braies: loose trousers ending below knees or at ankles, and tied there,
    Roman, early European
  • Camlet: camel-hair fabric
  • Camocas: silk cloth striped with gold and silver
  • Caul: jeweled net worn as women’s head-covering, 14th-15th centuries
  • Chainse: long tunic of fine linen with long sleeves tightly fitted at the wrists; fabric is typically white, usually pleated, and quite often has decorative bands at neck, cuff,  and sometimes hem.
  • Chaperon: hat contrived from winding long ‘liripipe’ round cap
  • Chausuble: circular cape with aperture for head, typically clerical
  • Chausses: stockings for covering leg and feet up to the thigh>
  • Coif: close-fitting cap of white linen later embroidered or made in black, generally  worn by men
  • Cope: hooded cloak, typically worn by clergy
  • Cornet(te): one term for the braids on either side of woman’s face
  • Corset: in medieval times, two possibilities: 1) long or short surcoat with or without sleeves or 2) cloak
  • Cote: tunic or gown
  • Cotehardie (also pourpoint): fitted and front buttoned gown for
    men and sometimes though rarely, women (one riding reference). (translates as Daring Coat), also known
    as a courtepy
  • Courtepy: very short, hip belted tunic. a version of the cotehardie
  • Culot: short tight breeches worn during reign of Henry III
  • Cyclas or Gardecorps: outer gown, sometimes sleeveless, with side and front openings. The garment often has openings at the front and lower armscye so that the arms protrude and the sleeves hang behind
  • Dag or Dagging: where hems and ends of bands are cut in various patterns, such as toothed or open-worked designs. Fulled wool is perfect for this feature but there does appear to be some pictorial evidence in the 15th century that these were also sewn and lined.
  • Doublet: quilted garment, padded with layers of cotton, linen, wool, or waste material, stitched and worn under a hauberk
  • Eschapins: a small light shoe made from rich material
  • Facings: edgings on garments made from silk, line, wool, or fur to strengthen the edge and/or finish the edge
  • Filet: woven band tied round the head or metal band worn round head.
  • Gambeson: padded garment worn under hauberk; also know as a gibbon, pourpoint or  doublet
  • Gardecorps or Cyclas: outer gown, sometimes sleeveless, with side and front openings. The garment often has openings at the front and lower armscye so that the arms protrude and the sleeves hang behind
  • Ghita: surcote, sleeved or not (perhaps)
  • Gipon or Gippon (also Jupon): a type of doublet made of padded, quilted material; in 14th century, same as a doublet or jack
  • Gonelle or Gonne: gown
  • Gorget: linen neck-covering
  • Hauberk: military tunic of mail or leather
  • Helm: military headgear made of leather or metal
  • Hose: knitted or cloth, a covering for the foot and part of the leg>
  • Houppelande: voluminous gown worn by men and women, late 14th century,
    most of 15th, could be button or some type of closure or over the head
  • Huque: short outer flowing robe, open at sides; knight’s version had slit in front
  • Jack: padded military jacket, up to 30 layers, worn over hauberk; not to be confused with doublet
  • Jupon (also Gipon or Gippon): a type of doublet made of padded, quilted material; in 14th century, same as a doublet or jack
  • Kirtle or Kyrtyl: long fitted gown typically laced up front, sometimes back, with sleeves that are sometimes fitted and buttoned (there are several various spellings for this garment but all appear similar and sound the same phonetically)
  • Liripipe: long ‘tail’ descending from hood or chaperon
  • Mantle: short cape or the portion of a hood from neck to hem
  • Miniver: unspotted ermine fur; any white fur, particular use in the robes of peers
  • Mitre: clerical/priestly head dress
  • Parti-Color(ed): divided vertically in half, a 12-14th century garment in two colours of cloth. Same in front as back. Sleeves match the side color
  • Pelicon: fur-lined garment worn between the chemise and cote during 12-15th
    centuries
  • Points: metal-ended laces used to attach upper hose to doublet
  • Poulaines: very long-toed pointy shoes
  • Pourpoint (also cotehardie): a mans tightly fitted cotehardie, eventually became an under doublet that laced to full hose in the 15th century
  • Robe Deguisee: garments reserved for most elegant wear, usually new and in daring fashion.
  • Sable: fur used for adornment and lining
  • Samite: rich silk cloth, unmade after Middle Ages
  • Scye: Abbreviation for armseye or arm hole
  • Sideless gown or surcote: woman’s gown open at the sides to the hips, 14th-15th century. The deeply cut version is sometimes referred to as The Gates of Hell but this term was only found once that I know of in a sermon. This version of the  garment was not typically referred to as such in daily life and does not appear in wardrobe listings
  • Skull Cap: small round cap covering top of head; some had small points and tails. 12th-15th centuries
  • Surcote: outer garment usually worn over a tunic and shirt/shift, can have sleeves or not
  • Tabard: sleeveless outer garment with open side-seams typically worn by men in some kind of service such as clerical or heraldic
  • Tippet: white linen bands with strip hanging down worn tied on above elbows, 14th century
  • Vair: The squirrel in question was apparently blue-grey on the back and white  underneath, and was much used for the lining of cloaks. It was sewn together in alternating cup-shaped pieces of back and stomach fur, resulting in a pattern of grey-blue and grey-white which, when simplified in heraldic drawing and painting, became blue and white in alternating pieces. The species involved has never been accurately identified
  • Veil: the linen or silk woman’s head covering
  • Wimple: women’s head and neck covering, 12-15th centuries

One thought on “Glossary

  1. Pingback: The Height of Fashion: King Edward III and the Waterford Charter Roll | Irish Archaeology

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